Repeat Traveller

Penang Revisited

Just six months after my first visit to Penang, the travel gods smiled on me once more and delivered a second chance to experience the historic streets and street art of George Town – and this time I wasn’t alone!

Simon and I had originally planned to visit Nusa Lembongan, a small Indonesian island often described as ‘Bali the way it used to be’, but a pesky volcano interrupted our plans. Rather than miss out on our much-needed week of relaxation, we threw darts at the map to find an alternative.

Photo: Simon Ceglinski
Photo: Simon Ceglinski

Ash from the Mount Rinjani volcano on Lombok started interfering with flights in and out of Bali’s Denpasar Airport around four days before we were scheduled to depart, leaving us no choice but to reschedule. Thankfully Garada Indonesia allowed us to change flights with minimum fuss.

After flying in to Jakarta, a city I’m not particularly keen to return to, we caught a Malaysian Airlines flight to Kuala Lumpur and on to Penang. We spent a total of five nights in the city, soaking up all of the delights this quirky city had to offer. And, of course, eating our fill of Nonya cuisine.

Photo: Chris Ashton
Photo: Chris Ashton

Personally, I always find it much more enjoyable to travel with someone. As good as solo travel and the freedom it provides can be, it’s always more fun when you can share a destination with someone, bouncing thoughts and ideas off each other. People-watching is my favourite sport after all.

Penang had just entered it’s rainy season, so the mornings were always quite hot and steamy. But by mid to late afternoon the heavens had parted, forcing people to retreat under cover for 20 minutes, and then returned to sunshine. The rain was always welcome; Malaysia’s humidity can be quite tough.

Photo: Simon Ceglinski
Photo: Simon Ceglinski

Having to create our holiday at the last minute, we settled on the Muntri Grove boutique hotel, located just within the George Town World Heritage Buffer Zone. The hotel started life as 10 shophouses, but was recently reborn into 16 boutique guest suites. It also now features a rooftop swimming pool and cafe, as well as the always important free wifi internet access.

The room itself was absolutely stunning, a mixture of white walls, timber furnishings, vibrant throw pillows and colourful artworks. Polished concrete-tiles gave the space a warehouse chic look. It was an amazing find, especially considering we found and booked it within about five minutes flat.

Muntri Grove. Photo: Simon Ceglinski
Muntri Grove. Photo: Simon Ceglinski

Our days were pretty relaxed with late starts and lazy breakfasts followed by a few hours of walking and exploration. A brief siesta at the hotel during the afternoon rain storms gave us a chance to recharge the batteries, then it was back out for a late arvo snack and more photos of the local street art.

Photo: Simon Ceglinski
Photo: Simon Ceglinski

The other standouts of Penang are its street art and Colonial heritage, with buildings seemingly held together by wallpaper. Numerous internationally renowned artists have painted murals throughout the city, meaning you always have to look up, down and around as you explore the streets.

Back alleys tended to hide the best pieces.

On one of the days we did a cooking class with local identity Pearly Kee, brushing up on our knife skills and learning the secrets of Nonya cuisine from a local master. We cooked three dishes; assam mea (tamarind prawns), view hu char (stir fried vegetables with cuttlefish), and a green mango salad (using mangos harvested from the trees outside Muntri Grove).

Photo: Chris Ashton
Cooking with Pearly. Photo: Chris Ashton

The other stars of Penang are its street art and Colonial heritage. Numerous internationally renowned artists have painted murals throughout the city, meaning you always have to look up, down and around as you explore the streets. Back alleys tend to hide the best pieces.

The old buildings and shophouses, many of which look as if they may fall down in a light breeze, have so much character and charm. Now that George Town is UNESCO World Heritage Listed, many of these old buildings are being slowly restored back to their former glory, but in a sympathetic way that doesn’t lose the unique character the buildings possess.

Though this wasn’t the holiday we had originally intended, it reminded us that sometimes the best experiences are the ones that are unplanned. 

Learn more about Penang: tourismpenang.net.my

Chris Ashton

We're Chris Ashton and Simon Ceglinski, two Aussie travellers with a love of exploration and adventure, and the odd bit of luxury thrown in. We seek out street art, street food, and scuba diving wherever we go, and prefer the road less travelled over well-worn tourist paths.

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