Chris AshtonBangkok is one of my favourite cities – chaotic, colourful and overwhelming in all the best ways. But during a visit a few years ago, I discovered a side of the city that felt almost like another world: a long-tail boat journey through the canals of Thonburi.
While long-tail boat tours of Thonburi are now a well-established Bangkok experience, they still offer a refreshing perspective. I’ll admit that parts of the journey were a tad confronting. The disparity in living standards was sometimes hard to ignore, particularly when you glide past beautifully restored temples and imposing homes before rounding a bend to find weathered wooden houses perched precariously above the water.
But that contrast is also what makes the experience so fascinating.
Away from the busy shopping malls and tourist precincts, the canals offer a glimpse of Bangkok rarely captured in the guidebooks – and a reminder that its waterways remain an integral part of daily life.
Our small group boarded a long-tail boat at the Wat Rajsingkorn ferry terminal, near The Asiatique, before making a couple of runs along the Chao Phraya. We then entered the khlongs – Bangkok’s network of canals – through a lock system at Dao Khanang.
From there, we continued along Bang Khun Tian before eventually making our way back to the Chao Phraya via Bangkok Yai.
The sightseeing was certainly part of the appeal, but it was the people-watching that intrigued me most. Long-tail boat drivers puffing away on cigarettes like chimneys, garbage collectors expertly slinging bins over their shoulders, and floating vendors navigating the waterways in tiny canoes laden with fruit, snacks and assorted goods.
Everywhere you looked, there was evidence that the river and canals remain more than just scenic attractions – they’re working waterways and, for many residents, an essential part of daily life.
Over the course of around 90 minutes, the boat moved at a leisurely pace, giving us plenty of time to take everything in. Vast temple complexes appeared between the trees, alongside grand riverside estates, modern apartment blocks and ramshackle wooden houses perched along the riverbank, some seemingly leaning out over the water. Every turn revealed another glimpse of life unfolding along the banks.
And that’s what makes seeing Bangkok by boat so memorable. Away from the traffic and crowds, the pace slows and you get a much closer look at the city – people going about their routines, children playing near the water and boats delivering goods along the canals.
Long-tail boats are essentially like tuk-tuks on water. You can negotiate the cost directly with your driver, although if you’re like me and haggling isn’t your strong suit (read: terrible at it), then booking a guided tour is probably the easier option.
There are several canal tours available through Viator, although prices and itineraries vary, so check the current options before booking. Alternatively, your hotel should be able to arrange a private boat or recommend a reputable operator.
Either way, if you have a spare couple of hours in Bangkok, it’s well worth getting off the beaten track and onto the water.
The temples and architecture are impressive, but it’s the glimpse into everyday life – sometimes beautiful, sometimes confronting, and always fascinating – that makes a journey through Bangkok’s canals a must-do.
