Chris AshtonThe first time I visited Byron Bay was in 1994. It was quite a different place back then: a surf, backpacker and hippie haven – rough around the edges with a strong alternate spirit, boards on almost every car, and the scent of incense an ever-present companion.
I moved to the area a few years later and it’s held my attention ever since, even with its many evolutions. Because, deep down, it hasn’t changed that much.
The natural beauty still abounds (be sure to check out the Cape Byron lighthouse walk while you’re in town), the community remains as multicultural as ever, and the foodie scene continues to push the envelope in new and exciting directions.
As a long-time local who’s spent many a day and night tasting his way through town, the latter is my favourite aspect. Its bakeries and cafes are stellar too.
With that in mind, here are my picks for the best restaurants in Byron Bay.
For a relaxed meal
Roca
I’m a sucker for ceviche. Put that on a menu and you’ll find me stepping up to the door in no time. Roca’s ceviche does not disappoint, and it’s backed by several other standout dishes, from empanadas and calamari to churrasco-style beef rump.
Decor is stunning too, with a quirky, colourful vibe flowing both inside and out. If the weather is on your side, I recommend perching yourself under the umbrella outside so you can also indulge in a spot of people watching, but you can’t go wrong with any choice.
Where: 14 Lawson Street, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: rocabyronbay.com.au
Japonaise Kitchen
Japonaise is one of the most underrated (and amazing) restaurants in town. The name isn’t a typo either – it’s actually the French word for a Japanese woman. A hole-in-the-wall eatery reminiscent of a Tokyo bar, the restaurant always great for lunch and even more exceptional for dinner.
From gyoza, katsu and sushi to caramelised karaage chicken (my personal go-to) and japadogs (a hot dog bun filled with karaage chicken, lavishly drizzled with sauce), the menu is full of all the faves. There are some well-priced quick grab and go bento boxes too, not to mention a curated selection of Japanese beers and sake.
Where: 2/25-27 Lawson St, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: japonaisekitchen.com
The Balcony Bar & Oyster Co.
Perched upstairs on the corner of Jonson and Lawson Streets is Balcony – aka the people watcher’s restaurant of choice. The wraparound balcony is always packed with diners, with the views worthwhile pretty much any time of the day. The fact its seafood-rich menu and cocktails are great too is just the icing on the cake.
My favourite time to visit is Sunday afternoons for Drag ‘n Dine, where visiting and local drag queens strut their stuff down the aisles of the restaurant, performing several shows throughout the night, either singing loud and proud or lip-synching for their lives.
Where: 7/3 Lawson St, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: balcony.com.au
The Cyprus Tree
Tucked away down Bay Lane, just behind the Beach Hotel, The Cyprus Tree has been a fixture of Byron’s culinary map for years. It’s a classic restaurant taking diners on a trip around the Mediterranean with great service and mouth-wateringly delicious dishes like moussaka, klefthico (slow-roasted lamb), octopus and more.
The two-person mezzare platters are probably the best way to get an overview of their wares, with options for meat, vegetarian and seafood. The latter is my pick – the bountiful platter overflowing with succulent calamari, scallops and prawns bursting with flavour.
Where: Bay Lane, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: facebook.com/TheCyprusTree/
Trattoria Byron Bay
A frequent haunt of mine, Trattoria is a rustic Italian venue that never disappoints. It’s perfect for large groups, with a variety of shareable dishes for entrees – the burrata and carpaccio are essential orders – plus homemade pastas and wood-fired pizzas.
Service is always exceptional: friendly, knowledgeable, and full of personality. Those who adhere to a gluten free diet will love it too, with genuine skill (read: witchcraft) in the kitchen resulting in gluten free pizza bases that are just as good as regular ones.
Where: 32 Lawson St, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: trattoriabyronbay.com
Three Blue Ducks
Occupying pride of place at The Farm – an 80-acre property just off the Pacific Highway in Ewingsdale – Three Blue Ducks is perfection in every way. The food, the ambience, the views and the service, with a setting tailor-made for getting back to nature.
Like its eight sister venues, including Rosebery, Bellingen and now also Brunswick Heads, Three Blue Ducks Byron is about having good fun with honest food that’s sourced sustainably. Among the noteworthy dishes are the charcoal chicken, crispy-skin barramundi, and spiced cauliflower with tahini.
Where: 11 Ewingsdale Road. Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: threeblueducks.com/venues/byron
For something special
Forest Byron Bay
On the outskirts of town lies Crystalbrook Byron – a chic, five-star hotel enveloped by subtropical rainforest. It’s home to Forest: an upmarket restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and you don’t need to be a hotel guest to enjoy it.
I’ve dined with friends several times over the years and, while the whole menu is great, I can’t go past the twice-baked Nimbin Monti Nardi cheese soufflé and slow-braised lamb shoulder. If you’re feeling a bit fancy, and packed your stretchy pants, I highly recommend the greatest hits tasting menu.
Where: 77-97 Broken Head Road, Byron Bay NSW
Website: crystalbrookcollection.com/byron/forest
Byron Bay Oyster Bar & Restaurant
Not to be confused with the other oyster bar in town, this one on the ground level of Hotel Marvell is a very different – but still sensational – experience. Best paired with a cheeky aperitif on the rooftop bar, Byron Bay Oyster Bar is all about the bounty of the sea, with its oysters kept in a special seawater tank in the nearby industrial estate for maximum freshness.
The vibe is sleek and refined with service to match. The $3 daily oyster happy hour from 5-6pm is a good reason to step inside, but the full menu is also worth biting into. A semi-open kitchen allows you to feel part of the action, with dishes like market fish sashimi, Ballina king prawns, wagyu sirloin and spanner crab tagliatelle a few of the must tries.
Where: 4 Marvell Street, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: byronbayoysterbar.com.au
Moonlight Hibachi Grill + Wine Bar
Upstairs from The Cyprus Tree is the intimate Moonlight: a popular hangout with a devoted legion of fans. Not that they can all get in at the same time though – it’s super tight. The intimate venue boasts an extensive wine list (featuring several biodynamic wines picked according to the lunar cycle within its ranks) and fresh take on classic Japanese dishes.
On the menu are raw seafood classics such as tuna and kingfish, along with yakitori and scallops cooked on the hibachi grill and infused with a delicious smoky quality. There are also tasty sides like furikake fries and watermelon with ponzu.
Where: Bay Lane, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: moonlightbar.com.au
Bar Heather
There are many reasons a great restaurant can stand out. The food, for one. Location, decor and exceptional service all factor in too. When they all come together in a delicate dance that tickles your senses in all the right ways, you know you’ve found somewhere special. Pixie Italian is that one for us.
Situated at the quieter southern end of Jonson Street, in the Jonson Lane precinct, Bar Heather feels almost like a local’s secret. Stepping through the curtained entrance – eyes readjusting to the dimmed lighting – you’re transported to what could be the laneways of Melbourne.
And on the cards? Dishes like duck breast with jackfruit and grapefruit, bream with brown butter and lemon, and a honey cake with honeycomb gelato, backed by some wicked cocktails.
Where: Jonson Lane, 139 Jonson St, Byron Bay NSW 2481
Website: barheather.com
