Chris AshtonA crisp-white stupa isn’t something you’d typically expect to see peeking through the dry Australian bushland. Yet in the City of Greater Bendigo, rising gently above the gums, the Great Stupa of Universal Compassion is exactly that – a striking, slightly surreal sight that stops you mid-step.
The Great Stupa is one of the largest Buddhist temples in the Western world, but there’s nothing imposing or exclusive about it. Quite the opposite. This is a place that openly welcomes people of all faiths – or no faith – inviting visitors to wander, contemplate, spin prayer wheels and simply take in the calm of the surrounding gardens.
You don’t need to know anything about Buddhism to feel comfortable here; curiosity is enough.
My visit during the Australian Society of Travel Writers Convention coincided with the annual Vegecareian Festival, which added an extra layer of colour and community to the experience. Think multicultural market stalls, fragrant cooking demonstrations, and a wonderfully inclusive atmosphere that extends beyond humans.
One of the festival’s most heart-melting traditions is the blessing of animals – with dogs of all shapes and sizes patiently brought along to receive gentle blessings from monks and nuns. A labrador strolling through the grounds with its owners quickly stole my attention. Reiki for dogs is also a thing here, and it’s just as adorable as it sounds.
At the heart of the complex is the stupa itself – an 80-year project that began in 2003 and continues to evolve. The building is far from finished, but it’s well on its way.
Wander along the stupa’s perimeter and you’ll find rows of prayer wheels, each one containing millions of prayers written on tiny papers. Every spin is said to release the prayers into the world, which makes even a casual wander feel meaningful.
Then, there’s the Jade Buddha – one of several prized artefacts within the stupa. Carved from an 18-tonne boulder discovered in Canada, the jade was transported to Thailand where it was sculpted, before embarking on a nine-year world tour, where it was witnessed by millions of people throughout its journey.
Today, the finished Buddha weighs around four tonnes and calls Bendigo its permanent home. It’s the largest gem-quality jade Buddha in the world. To help fund the original jade purchase – reportedly around $1 million – multiple Green Tara statues were also carved for major sponsors, while tiny offcuts of the jade live on as jewellery in the gift shop.
Look up and you’ll spot one of the Stupa’s newest features: a beautifully detailed Kalachakra mandala painted into the ceiling. Only recently revealed, it’s designed as a bird’s-eye view of the stupa itself – a symbolic, meditative artwork that’s almost complete, with just a few finishing touches still to come.
I admit, I did get a bit emotional walking around the complex; tears streaming down my face at one point. It had only been a few weeks since my dog Murphy had passed, and seeing other dogs bounding around, thinking of what a joy it would have been to bring him here, made my heart ache. A passing labrador cheered me up immensely.
Entry to the Great Stupa is by donation, making it an easy and accessible stop, whether you’ve got five minutes or an entire afternoon. Self-guided tours are recommended. For those keen to dive deeper, 90-minute guided tours can be booked in advance, priced at $15 for adults, $12 for concession holders and $8 for children.
Whether you arrive for a festival, a guided tour, or simply to stretch your legs and clear your head, the Great Stupa of Universal Compassion is one of Bendigo’s most unexpected – and surprisingly moving – experiences.
The writer visited as a guest of Bendigo Tourism.
