Chris AshtonWe’ve always been fairly independent travellers. Seeking out new sights, sidestepping the well-worn tourist trails, and occasionally losing our way – only to find it again – is how we prefer to see the world. That said, we always make time for a guided tour.
‘But doesn’t that go against your whole ethos’, you say? Fair point. In some ways, yes, but a good guided tour also delivers an opportunity: to learn from the locals, to hear their stories and explore their diverse cultural viewpoints. A recent trip to Vanuatu brought this info focus.
Just two hours and 45 minutes flight from Brisbane to Port Vila, Vanuatu is known the world over for its enticing pool of tourism draw cards – the gentle Mele cascades, the striking pale waters of the blue lagoon, and lazy kayak tours along Rentapao River, to name a few. Yet there’s another that doesn’t get nearly enough credit: the people.
Beyond the islands’ natural beauty and pulse-raising pursuits, it’s the Ni-Vanuatu people who leave the most lasting impression. Their culture is distinct, their stories shaped by geography and climate, scattered across 83 islands in this South Pacific archipelago.
They’re also remarkably resilient. The devastating 7.3-magnitude earthquake of December 2024, which caused widespread damage across the capital and surrounding Efate Island, remains fresh in their memory. Yet despite the enormous challenges it brought, the spirit, humour and quiet optimism of the locals have remained remarkably intact.
Rebuild efforts are well underway. Hotels, bars and restaurants are reopening, and with each, a piece of the jigsaw is restored. The Grand Hotel and Casino Port Vila is among the prominent names to have recently welcomed guests back through its doors, with more to follow.
Wanting to go deeper than the sights alone, we signed up for a guided tour – and it was one of the best decisions we made.
Our guide for the day was Grace: engineering student, part-time guide, and natural storyteller. As our Bountiful Transfers & Tours minibus wound through vivid forests, past cool waterholes, along deserted beaches and beneath endless corridors of towering coconut palms, she brought the islands to life in a way no guidebook could.
Spend a full day with someone, and conversation flows. That’s when you get a real feel for a place.
Grace spoke of her home island, Pentecost – famous for its extraordinary ‘land diving’ ritual, in which men leap from wooden towers up to 30 metres high, with only two vines tied around their ankles to break the fall. Widely regarded as the spiritual forerunner of modern bungee, the practice is performed each year during the yam harvest, typically across April, May and June, and is believed to ensure a strong crop for the season ahead.
She spoke too about her studies, her family, and the quiet realities of island life – details we would have passed straight by had we been travelling alone.
One of the most surprising insights was the threat posed by the rhinoceros beetle: invasive pests that, since first detected on Efate in 2019, have devastated the coconut plantations. I’ve spotted these small insects – known for their hissing sounds and rhino-like horns – in Australia, yet had no idea of the damage they could do, as they ruin the coconut palms, leaving giant, headless stalks in their wake.
Copra (dried coconut meat) and oil are cornerstones of Vanuatu’s economy, supporting roughly 80% of the rural population, and it’s heartbreaking to see the havoc they’ve caused. The Vanuatu government and aid groups are working to combat the threat.
Of course, it wasn’t just conversation that filled our day – there were attractions too.
Eden on the River
Around 40-minutes from Port Vila, Eden on the River is a natural swimming area framed by natural waterfalls. We arrived early, and for a while, it felt like we had the place entirely to ourselves. No distractions, no other visitors – just the steady rush of water spilling into limestone pools, birdsong floating through the trees, and butterflies flitting through the undergrowth. Inner tubes were provided to help relax and float amid the cascades, soaking up the serenity.
Eton Beach
At Eton Beach, the mood shifted to something more social but no less idyllic. A cool freshwater stream slipped into the sea, and we found ourselves lingering longer than planned – watching kids splash in the shallows and snorkellers drift further out. We claimed a picnic table for a while, enjoying some fresh fruit, but I was distracted watching one of the local fishermen: balanced on the rocks, spear gripped above his shoulder, scanning the water with quiet focus. When he finally struck, it felt less like a spectacle and more like a glimpse into local life. He looked pretty chuffed as he made his way home with a decent sized fish over his arm.
Blue Lagoon
As its name suggests, this is a breathtaking natural swimming spot where the water is a brilliant shade of turquoise blue. Sandy paths lined with bougainvillea in bloom lead you through the property, while balustrades painted in blue and white add a rustic Mediterranean-meets-tropical island vibe. The sound of families playing, the cheers and calls of support as brave swimmers grab hold of ropes, swing and then splash into the water, was the prevailing soundtrack. We followed suit, jumping and swinging into the water from timber decks, with a picnic lunch provided by the Bountiful Tours team, followed by a leisurely swim out toward the beach to work it off.
By the end of the day, it was clear that the tour hadn’t detracted from our way of travelling – it had deepened it. Independent travel allows you to see a place; experiences like this allow you to understand it. In Vanuatu, that distinction matters. The landscapes may draw you in, but it’s the people – their stories, their resilience, their generosity in sharing both – that stay with you.
We visited Vanuatu at own expense, with the tour supported by Vanuatu Tourism.
Looks so beautiful! I had no idea about the rhino beetles being invasive.
You would love it. Vanuatu isn’t as developed as the likes of Fiji, but I think that adds to the experience. It feels more authentic and low-key, putting the focus on the destination rather than the hotels or amenities.